Care Guide

Wipe the surface with a soft, dry cloth after each wear to remove dust before it dulls the finish. This takes ten seconds and prevents more work later.

Once a week — or whenever the leather looks dry — apply a thin layer of matching shoe cream (black for black, brown for brown, or neutral for lighter tones) with a soft cloth. Work it in with small circular motions, let it sit for five minutes, then buff with a horsehair brush or clean cloth until the surface shines.

Tip: for waxed or burnished leather, use a slightly darker cream to deepen the antiqued effect, or a neutral cream to preserve the existing tone.

Every two to three months, apply a quality leather conditioner to prevent the leather from drying, cracking, or losing its suppleness. Conditioner restores the natural oils that regular wear strips away.

Apply a small amount with a soft cloth, working it evenly across the entire upper. Let it absorb for 15–20 minutes, then buff gently. Do not over-condition — too much product can clog the grain and dull the surface.

Calfskin is finer-grained than cowhide and benefits from more frequent conditioning — every six to eight weeks is ideal.

If your leather shoes get wet, do not use direct heat — no hairdryers, no radiators, no sunlight. Heat dries leather unevenly and causes cracking.

Instead: remove the shoes, stuff them firmly with newspaper or paper towels to absorb moisture and hold the shape, and let them air dry at room temperature. Once fully dry, condition the leather and polish as normal. The waxed finish on our shoes provides a degree of natural water resistance, but prolonged exposure should be avoided.

Always insert cedar shoe trees after each wear. Cedar absorbs moisture, neutralises odour, and holds the shoe's shape — particularly important for the toe box and the instep, where creasing occurs first.

Store in a dust bag when not in regular rotation. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture and can promote mildew. Keep shoes in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, which can fade and dry the leather over time.

If you own multiple pairs, rotating them — never wearing the same pair two days in a row — is the single best thing you can do for their longevity. It gives the leather and lining a full day to dry and recover.

For shoes with brogue perforations (cap-toe oxfords), clean the holes periodically with a soft-bristled brush to remove accumulated polish and dust that can clog the decorative punching.

For shoes with metal hardware (horsebit loafers, monk strap buckles), wipe the hardware with a dry or slightly damp cloth after each wear. Avoid chemical cleaners or abrasive materials, which can dull or scratch the finish. The gold-tone and silver-tone plating will maintain its lustre with gentle, regular attention.

After each wear, brush the suede with a soft suede brush, always in one direction, to restore the nap and remove surface dust. Brushing against the grain lifts dirt; brushing with the grain smooths the surface. Consistency matters more than technique — a quick brush after every wear keeps the suede looking fresh.

For lambskin suede, use a lighter touch — the nap is finer and denser than cowhide suede and responds better to gentle brushing.

Apply a suede protector spray before the first wear and reapply every four to six weeks, or more frequently if the shoes are worn regularly. The spray creates an invisible barrier against water and stains without altering the colour or texture of the suede.

Apply in a well-ventilated area, hold the can 15–20cm from the surface, and spray in even passes. Let the shoes dry completely before wearing.

For dry stains (dust, dirt, light marks): use a suede eraser. Rub gently over the stain, then brush the nap back into shape with a suede brush.

For water stains: lightly dampen the entire shoe with a clean, damp cloth to even out the watermark, then stuff with newspaper and let air dry completely. Once dry, brush the nap to restore the texture. This sounds counterintuitive, but it works — evening out the moisture prevents a visible ring.

For oil or grease stains: apply cornstarch or talcum powder to the stain, let it sit overnight to absorb the oil, then brush away and follow with the suede eraser. For stubborn stains, take the shoes to a professional suede cleaner.

Light drizzle is manageable — especially if the suede has been treated with a protector spray. But prolonged exposure to heavy rain should be avoided. Water can stain, warp, and flatten the nap permanently if the suede is soaked.

If the shoes do get wet: stuff firmly with newspaper, let them air dry naturally at room temperature (never direct heat), and brush gently once fully dry to restore the nap.

Cowhide suede (high-lustre, pebble-grain) is denser and handles moisture better than lambskin suede. Lambskin should be treated with extra caution in wet conditions.

Insert cedar shoe trees after every wear — this is especially important for soft, unstructured suede shoes, which are more prone to creasing and losing their shape than structured leather shoes.

Store in a dust bag in a cool, dry place. Avoid plastic and avoid direct sunlight, which can fade the colour of the suede over time. If storing for an extended period, apply a light coat of suede protector spray before bagging.

Untie the knot gently after every wear — pulling the narrow end through the knot in reverse, rather than yanking the tie open. Forcing the knot stresses the silk fibres and can cause permanent distortion in the interlining.

Hang the tie on a tie rack or drape it over a hanger for a few hours to let the creases from the knot relax naturally. Alternatively, roll the tie loosely from the narrow end and store it in a drawer — rolling preserves the shape of the blade better than folding.

Do not iron silk ties directly. The heat and pressure of an iron can crush the interlining and leave a permanent shine on the silk surface.

Instead: hang the tie in a steamy bathroom after a hot shower, or use a handheld garment steamer on the lowest setting, held 10–15cm from the surface. The steam relaxes the fibres without direct contact. For stubborn creases, lay the tie flat, place a slightly damp cotton cloth over it, and press very lightly with an iron on the lowest heat setting — the cloth acts as a protective barrier.

For fresh stains: blot immediately with a clean, dry cloth. Do not rub — rubbing pushes the stain deeper into the silk fibres and can damage the weave.

For dry stains or set-in marks: take the tie to a professional dry cleaner experienced with silk. Do not attempt to wash silk ties at home — water can cause the yarn-dyed colours to bleed and the interlining to shrink and bunch.

Prevention is the best care: be mindful at meals, and consider loosening or removing the tie when eating. A stain on printed silk is surface-level; a stain on yarn-dyed jacquard silk penetrates the woven structure and is harder to reverse.

Store ties either hanging on a tie rack (which allows creases to fall out naturally) or loosely rolled in a drawer (which prevents hanging stress on delicate silk).

Do not fold ties flat — the crease line can become permanent. Do not store in direct sunlight, which fades silk colours over time. If travelling, roll the tie around a small cardboard tube or place it in a tie case to prevent crushing.

Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent for the longest life. If machine washing, use a delicate cycle inside a mesh laundry bag — this prevents snagging, stretching, and tangling with heavier garments.

Wash dark and bright colours separately to prevent dye transfer — this is especially important for saturated colours (red, purple, coral) and for the first wash of any new pair.

Do not bleach. Bleach breaks down nylon fibres and will fade colours irreversibly.

Air dry flat or hang to dry. Do not tumble dry — the heat damages the elasticity of the spandex and can dull colour saturation. For ribbed socks, tumble drying can also flatten the rib texture permanently.

Do not iron. The nylon-spandex blend does not require ironing and can be damaged by direct heat. If the socks are wrinkled after drying, a light steam from a garment steamer will smooth them without contact.

Store flat or loosely folded — do not stretch or ball tightly, which can deform the elastic cuff and the rib structure over time. Drawer dividers or a dedicated sock organiser help prevent tangling.

Trim toenails regularly to prevent snags. Sheer nylon is durable but not immune to sharp edges — a snag on sheer fabric is difficult to repair invisibly.

For socks with contrast details (contrast toe, contrast sole), store with the contrast section visible so you can quickly identify the colourway when getting dressed.

For shoes with white rubber soles (Pebble-Grain Penny Loafers), the white sole can pick up marks from floors and pavement.

Clean with a damp cloth and mild soap solution. For stubborn marks, use a white eraser or a melamine sponge — rub gently until the mark lifts. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, which can yellow the rubber over time.

Note: this section applies to the shoe sole, not the socks — but we include it here because the white sole is often the first thing that needs cleaning on these shoes.

Hand wash only in cool water with a gentle detergent formulated for silk or delicates. Do not wring — press the water out gently by rolling the socks in a clean towel.

Air dry flat on a towel, away from direct heat and sunlight. Do not tumble dry and do not hang to dry — hanging can stretch the silk while wet.

Do not bleach. Do not iron. If wrinkles occur, a light steam from a garment steamer on the lowest setting will smooth the silk without contact.

Store flat or loosely folded in a drawer. Silk is a natural protein fibre and can be damaged by moths — consider using cedar blocks or lavender sachets in the drawer as a natural deterrent.

Keep away from direct sunlight, which fades silk colours over time. Do not store in plastic, which traps moisture and can cause yellowing.